Our friends over at JMP pumps sent this little nugget over today. Some good advice here if you want to prolong your pump's impeller life, but also to ensure that your pump can perform at its best. People tend to forget basic physics when they install pumps. Pipe diameter, pressure head or lift, (the relative difference in height between the pump and the overboard discharge controls this factor). Anyhow, all of these things can be maximized if you follow the simple tips below:

TIPS FOR GOOD PUMPING

        Flexible impeller pumps provide an efficient solution to most marine pumping needs.  The tips below from JMP will help ensure pumps stay in top condition and operating at a high level.

        Pipe runs should always be kept as short and straight as possible, avoiding rising over obstructions, as this can create air-locks.  Plumbing should be reinforced, non-collapsible hose of the recommended size.

Flexible impeller pumps must not be run dry for more than 30 seconds.  Bilge pumps and water pumps in particular should always be fastened to the boat structure to ensure their permanent location. Owners should mount flexible impeller pumps so that some water is left in the pump body when the pump is off.  This will prolong impeller life and speed priming.  Pumps must be installed with the overboard discharge well above the waterline to avoid water siphoning back into the vessel.

        JMP has manufactured electro-magnetic clutch, general multi-purpose and engine cooling pumps for over 30 years.  The company's pumps can be designed to meet specific application requirements.

Contact JMPUSA, 2000 NW 84th Ave. Suite 244, Miami, FL  33122.

Tel.  866-537-3959; 305-677-8330; Fax:  305-677-8337.  Email:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ; Website:  www.jmpusa.com

I had a query several days ago regarding an article I wrote for Cruising World magazine about batteries and battery banks. The fellow loved the article (Thanks!) but had a good question that I should share with everyone. It has to do with wire sizing, specificall the main cable from his boat battery to in his case a small outboard engine. On his boat the battery is located forward, I think under a berthing area and a rather long cable runs aft to his outboard motor. Keep in mind that in this case we're talking about a small outboard engine on a sailboat, not that the type of boat makes any difference here. He was having trouble getting his engine to crank over with the electric starter.

OK, so the issue here is voltage drop, and wire sizing is the key. The little tables shown here come from my best selling book (small plug here) Outboard Engines, Maintenance Troubleshooting and Repair.

For larger engines, use this table:

Oh, and say, if you do use outboard engines, you need a copy of the above mentioned book. If you purchase it by linking to McGraw Hill  via my link in the left column of my home page here. Go for it! $20 well spent!

Most folks who know me also know that I like all boats, power and sail. Folks who really know me well also know that I prefer classic looking boats that seem, to my eye anyhow, to have timeless appeal. My own Flyzone is a good example of how my taste in boats runs. Check it out here: http://www.edsboattips.com/construction-a-technical/87-eds-boat  

Anyhow, this past weekend I had an opportunity to "modernize" a bit and get a feel for a boat with 900 Mercury 4-Stroke Verado horsepower. Here's what that looked like:

So, you may be asking what did it feel like? Really good. I'm impressed. With these engines pushing us along at a cruise speed of 30 knots the boat was quiet and super smooth running. At low speed trolling or idle, no fumes and so quiet you could hardly tell the engines were running. The boat in question was a Boston Whaler Outrage 37, certainly the largest outboard powered boat I have ever been on. I'm told by the skipper that it has a top speed somewhere in the 50 knot area with this power package. I'm just glad somebody else was running the fuel tab on this adventure. Definately a deep pocket hobby with a rig like this. But, if you are lucky enough to be in that category, this whole set-up is one sweet rig!

I recently received a query from a reader regarding a requirement for double hose clamps on all of the hoses in his boat's fuel system. It seems that during a recent survey for insurance the surveyor recommended that double clamps be added "based on ABYC Standards". The reader is a little confused because the boat hasn't been modified since new 6 years ago. So, what's the real deal here?

This one is easy to answer. The ABYC does NOT require that double hose clamps be used anywhere in your fuel system other than for the fuel fill hose. Double clamping of the fuel fill hose is a USCG requirement under Title 33 of the Code of Federal Regulations for recreational boats. In this case the ABYC Standards (H-24 and H-33 for gasoline and diesel systems respectively) mirror the Coast Guard requirements.

As a matter of fact, in many cases double clamping can do more harm than good. In the photo above, the double clamping at the fitting on the left is really causing a problem. the second clamp (farthest away from the fitting) is actually only clamping on the hose. The nipple on the fitting is not long enough to reach under the clamp. So, when tightening the clamp it actually starts to create a pulling effect on the hose as it tries to pull the hose off the fitting. Also, the end of the nipple is cutting into the inside of the hose also causing damage.

Further, in the photo above the clamps used are actually the wrong size. Notice the extended "tails" of clamp band beyond the screw mechanism. Sloppy workmanship. Beyond that, the outboard engine primer bulb really has no place located in the compartment shown as it is below deck. I'm not a fan of having primer bulbs located in enclosed areas on boats. Out on deck is fine, but due to their propensity for leaking I like to see them in an area where plenty of natural ventilation is happening, not buried in a closed space.

So, double clamps for the fuel system? Fuel fill hoses yes, all other hoses in the system, not required and sometimes can do more harm than good.

Last week I was able to share with you a little insight on how a basic lightning protection system might be set-up. The post was based on a question from one of our readers, Joe Langham. I also mentioned that Joe was also working on an electric propulsion conversion for his boat. Well, I've been in contact with Joe, and it turns out he is the creative type, a writer, actor, and musician, and of course a boater! It turns out that he and his partner Mo have begun a series of videos that are going to document their conversion from diesel to electric propulsion. You have got to see this! These folks know how to make a really tough, dirty job fun!

 Just to refresh everyone's memory, I first wrote about Electric Yacht about a year ago and I promised that a friend of mine in Halifax would have pictures of his install to share. Well, he got really busy and his project got side-tracked so not much progress has been made on that front. Electric Yacht has what I think is one of the sweetest, simple electric drive conversion kits available. The basic kit is shown here:

 Joe and Mo's conversion video is linked here, you have got to see this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KB1votTDzu8

Now, hopefully Joe and MO will get this finished. Joe tells me he's not going to be able to get back on the project until July, like most of us he has that nasty necessity called work in the way of his projects, but we're going to follow him on this one. This team is off to a great start. I want to hear more about their battery choice too, I'm not sure its the right choice.